Anyone else into woodworking?
It's a Freud tongue and groove matched set: http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/products/product/99-036are those raised panel bits on top of the router's hard shell case?
Technically not marquetry (though I find that to be a fun challenge) as the glued up piece are just shy of 2 inches thick and once solid they head through the planer to bring them to a 1.5" dimension and then panels are final assembled from three or four 8 foot long glued up board sections and then hand planed and sanded to finish.That's a nice bit of marquetry.
I have actually heard good things about that one actually, she's a beaut.I haven't squared the saw up yet so likely won't be using it until next week.
I'm expecting good things though - it's a DeWalt 780 (minus the blade LED) http://www.dewalt.com/en-us/product...uble-bevel--sliding-compound-miter-saw/dws780
Lots of potential in there wish I could see the room you are applying it to, sort of before -> sketch -> after.I have a few things planned for our new house (which we move in to in August) but the fist thing is a mud room drop zone.
I don't have a complete 3D render but this should give a good idea of what it's going to be.
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Same principle as a raised panel set except it has the advantage of being more versatile and universal whereas a raised panel set will pretty much only ever be a raised panel set.It's a Freud tongue and groove matched set: http://www.freudtools.com/index.php/products/product/99-036
I'm going to use it for shaker style cabinetry (doors), as well as general general hardwood edging.
I am going to say I find an impact wrench a great tool for custom clamp jig building. Using bolts for the final pressure application is a nice way to do it if you have this tool and they are great for a many other things (I am going to add a photo to the media gallery soon that shows an application of this tool). Washer stacks are your friend.I considered an impact driver but it's no good for the majority of the work I plan to do.
For cabinetry it will just rip through the faces.
I'll regret it when I extend the deck next year though ...
Having said that, until now I've strictly been hand tools only - try installing a 200 square foot deck with a hand saw and manual screwdriver and you'll know you've done a good day's work
A bit of hard work never hurt anyone
Oh and what the hell is it with imperial measurements only in the US?
I wish I'd shipped all of my tools over now - it's a pain having to work in feet and inches.
Get with the times!
I've done some marquetry (a long time ago) - it's time consuming and painstaking but very rewarding.u give me a good idea with that mention of marquetry however
Yes, I've got some top notch straight bits - I'm going to be using my router table for edge planing/jointing (amongst other things) as I don't have a planer.I would also invest (if you have not already) in a really high quality straight carbide bit
It's actually a closet as standard but I've asked the builder to leave it as a plain alcove without the wings/stubs, doors, etc.Lots of potential in there wish I could see the room you are applying it to, sort of before -> sketch -> after.
I'm a bit of a masochist - I'll usually always opt for the hard/physical optionHand building a deck...I'm out.
Tell me about it - I only get it in my hands and wrists but I expect it's just a matter of time at my age.Tell the bit about the hard work to my arthritis.
I can work with either but I far prefer metric - working in base 10 in increments of 1 mm is far simpler (and accurate) than using eighths or sixteenths of an inch.In your line of work I am not sure how badly it will effect you. Drill bits can be had in MM but unlike metric driving buts, those are really hard to get here. I work on a lot of metric furniture and it sucks to have to size up a hole to replace dowels etc. You can measure however you want. But a lot of your household items will be imperial and you might just want to go with it.
I can work with either but I far prefer metric - working in base 10 in increments of 1 mm is far simpler (and accurate) than using eighths or sixteenths of an inch.
Indeed, but with some determination some nice results can be achieved. I don't think what I do is considered a French polish or English polish though the principle is very similar and I would guess equally demanding. Basically layers of cover alternating with progressively higher grit abrasion until I get to the point that I am basically wet sanding for a mirror.I've done some marquetry (a long time ago) - it's time consuming and painstaking but very rewarding.
As is French polishing, if you've ever done that.
I could not agree with this any stronger than I do already.I'm very much of the opinion that you pay 2 to 3 times what you want for tools but you only need to pay once and it results in a far superior finish.
Ahhh perspective..nice, I can't wait to see what you come up with.It's actually a closet as standard but I've asked the builder to leave it as a plain alcove without the wings/stubs, doors, etc.
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The steps down at the bottom left are to the garage (the plan is the reverse of the photos).
You may or may not be a sick sick person. My vote will reach finality if your palm nailer benefits from hand lotion.I'm a bit of a masochist - I'll usually always opt for the hard/physical option
Like lugging a 65lb saw to the car rather than using a cart ...
Mine isn't from anything as prestigious, I am sure 90% of it is martial arts training specifically all those childhood years spent thinking that a a ninja would naturally be a suitable and available occupation in the future.Tell me about it - I only get it in my hands and wrists but I expect it's just a matter of time at my age.
It's as old as it looks by the way. I inherited a lot of Craftsmen tools as well from the Sears and Roebuck era and despite having newer tools I do use them.