My new PC specs, tell me what you would do!

[Vincent]

Make sure the Samsung SSD is an 840 Pro model, the ones without the PRO designation is the "value" range using cheaper TLC memory compared to the 840 PRO and 830 MLC memory, less write cycles, slower etc. As this is for a home PC I would not worry about SLC

I went for the non-Pro model because I think I don't really need the extra speed. And it's +60 euro's. Should I really get the Pro model?

Very much doubt it. If either your PSU or CPU went, or even Motherboard. Should no real reason why your GFX should damaged as a result of that.

In most cases, a failed PSU won't take out the system unless its safeguards fail too.

I've built most computers with Asus but have also used Asrock, MSI and Gigabyte without problems.

Make sure that you purchase a pair of memory modules instead of single module.

What's the purpose of your PC? Gaming?

Okay, that's what I was most worried about

I have 2x4GB, I thought of hat already I have no idea why the picture shows one bar, but the specs say it's two

And Gaming is the most important purpose, yeah. Perhaps I'm going for the i7 3770K instead of the 3570K one.

 

[Deebs]

I went for the non-Pro model because I think I don't really need the extra speed. And it's +60 euro's. Should I really get the Pro model?

If you are using it for gaming with most of your games on the SSD then I would personally get the pro model, faster, longer life etc. (Or I would purchase an 830 as they are better than the 840 NON pro models)

 

[Vincent]

If you are using it for gaming with most of your games on the SSD then I would personally get the pro model, faster, longer life etc. (Or I would purchase an 830 as they are better than the 840 NON pro models)

I have an 830 in my Mac but I can't buy it here anymore. I like the 830 very much but yeah..

 

[Brad L]

I built a new computer last Fall. I've built many, but this was the first time I tried to make a quiet pc and I love the outcome. You spend a little more on quality components, but imo it's well worth it. One site I remember using is linked below.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/

 

[Vincent]

I built a new computer last Fall. I've built many, but this was the first time I tried to make a quiet pc and I love the outcome. You spend a little more on quality components, but imo it's well worth it. One site I remember using is linked below.
http://www.silentpcreview.com/

Silent doesn't really matter that much to me. And as you say, my components aren't the most noisy ones
I'm searching for a Cooler for the Processor (3570K or 3770K). What would you/other people recommend?

 

[Vincent]

Here is my (probably) final build

I have a "Basic" and a "Better" model, and have put in yellow what I'm probably going for.
It's a .docx in a .zip because I can't upload .docx here

 

[Teapot]

• Case: Antec Three Hundred Two (http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704928&fid=115)

Would just like to throw in my support for the Antec - I've got a Three Hundred Two All-Black and it's an absolutely fabulous case.

I'm not saying don't use CPU air-cooling. But if building a machine intending to do some serious gaming with it, you should be thinking about a water-cooling system above an air one. But, that's your choice, you don't have to go that route. I'm just giving you some advice to consider when building it.

I have to say, I completely disagree here - a good air cooler will be significantly cheaper than a comparable watercooling setup, and will be just as good at shifting heat. Personally, I've got a £25 Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, and my (overclocked by 800Mhz to 4.1ghz) i3 560 runs at about 35°c idle and 55°c at full load, which is really cool compared to stock. The cheapest watercooler I could find - an Antec H2O 620 - was £45 for about the same performance.

By all means: if you're wanting to really push your rig to its absolute limits via massively overclocking, SLI, whatever, then I highly recommend you drop some money on a decent cooling system, which may warrant being watercooling-based. But for a stock Ivy Bridge 3570K? A good air-cooler will be just as effective, just as quiet, and significantly cheaper up until you're doing something crazy like 4.5Ghz-5Ghz overclocks.

ETA:

Looking at the document you listed, I'd like to highlight the merits of going with a better (ASUS, Gigabyte, etcetera) mobo over the ASRock - you'll probably not notice the difference all the way up until the ASRock explodes Basically, the motherboard is the framework on which all the other components work - having spent years with cheap (Winfast, Foxconn, ASRock) mobos, I can attest to how better makes are significantly better built, better laid out, and most importantly more reliable.

I'm also dubious as to whether the i7 is worth the extra 100 euros, but someone more informed than me would have to advise there.

 

[Ditto]

Would just like to throw in my support for the Antec - I've got a Three Hundred Two All-Black and it's an absolutely fabulous case.
I have to say, I completely disagree here - a good air cooler will be significantly cheaper than a comparable watercooling setup, and will be just as good at shifting heat. Personally, I've got a £25 Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO, and my (overclocked by 800Mhz to 4.1ghz) i3 560 runs at about 35°c idle and 55°c at full load, which is really cool compared to stock. The cheapest watercooler I could find - an Antec H2O 620 - was £45 for about the same performance.

By all means: if you're wanting to really push your rig to its absolute limits via massively overclocking, SLI, whatever, then I highly recommend you drop some money on a decent cooling system, which may warrant being watercooling-based. But for a stock Ivy Bridge 3570K? A good air-cooler will be just as effective, just as quiet, and significantly cheaper up until you're doing something crazy like 4.5Ghz-5Ghz overclocks.

If you choose wisely picking a good case (metal are best, because metal is cold and will help cool air). One with lots of extractor fans, and invest in a top quality CPU fan. You can get very good results from it. But what you have keep in mind, if you have for example twin SLI graphics cards and few internal HD's installed all given off heat inside the case. A normal CPU fan is really only pushing that same heat around the CPU to a certain degree. However, with a CPU water-cooling unit, one using an external radiator. That same "warm air circulation" problem over the CPU is not happening anything like the same. It common sense when you think about it?

 

[Teapot]

If you choose wisely picking a good case with lots extractor fans, and invest in a top quality CPU fan. You can get very good results from it. But what you have keep in mind, if you have for example twin SLI graphics cards and few internal HD's installed all given off heat inside the case. A normal CPU fan is really only pushing that same heat around to CPU to a certain degree. However, with a CPU water-cooling unit, one using an external radiator. That same warm air circulation problem around the CPU is not happening.

Well, the Antec Three Hundred Two the OP is looking at getting has two 120mm fans mounted in the back and top of the case as stock specifically to get heat away from around the cooler- and I can assure you, they really shift some air! I was unwise enough to get a mATX board when I upgraded last, and all my components are bunched up as a result - the fan side of the CPU cooler is about a centimetre above the back of the GPU board. They don't get hot, though, because of the two massive fans and the half-decent cooler. So the concept of warm air building up around the CPU cooler is, in theory, a problem - but in practice? It doesn't seem to make much difference even in my seemingly worst-case scenario.